Foell.org

I think it is spot on!

Because some of you might have 3D printers already, I’ll link my products to the STL files so you can print them yourselves. I’ll offer them for sale (with low shipping costs) for those who do not.

Keep in mind that sometimes it will be cheaper to order through MeatballRacing than to print it yourself. In the case of this Traxxas fan mount for most 2wd vehicles (Slash, Rustler, Stampede, Bandit) – the cost of the hardware alone would be more than ordering it from meatballracing.com direct.

Do you have any ideas for 3D printed parts? I’ve got some ideas in the hopper, especially for the venerable Traxxas Slash – maybe you have some as well? Let us know in the comments!

The post MeatballRacing 3D printed products appeared first on Meatball Racing.

MeatballRacing is going to debut a patriotic-themed Slash product in May, so I wanted to church-up my jump to go along with the theme.

I got an American Flag Distressed Stencil in 24″x18″ from Stencil Revolution. While I could have easily do a single-color paint job with it, I figured I could creatively reposition the stencil to get a full-color, red-white-and-blue, star spangled banner!

To make sure the paint would stick, I sanded the surface of my jump with some 220 grit sandpaper. I went in one direction, then another to create a crosshatch pattern.

For all of the paints I used Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover spray paint – based on recommendations that it works well on plastic.

• Gray Primer
• Gloss White
• Gloss Apple Red
• Gloss Deep Blue

I started with the primer. I masked off some edges, which isn’t strictly necessary, but they’re useful as guidelines when removing & replacing the stencil.

Then it was time for the red stripes. I put some paper behind the stars as a mask. Then painted red in the striped cut-outs.

After the red dried, I repositioned the stencil slightly to the left and slightly up. I did this to cover the red I already painted and also so the angle on the top-most stripes would match up with the red and the white.

The last part is putting the stencil on for the last time to paint the stars. I went a little too thick on many of my coats, and the stars were no exception. I should have done multiple lighter sprays, but the few stars that bled don’t bother me – it adds to the distressed look.

Once your jump is done, it’s time to give it a go.

If anyone out there has done some artwork beyond adding a ton of stickers to their jump, let’s see a pic. Post up in the comments below.

The post Send It, ‘Merica! appeared first on Meatball Racing.

To pre-empt any bashing that would take place during the first track session, I removed most of the scale details:

• Windshield wipers
• Antennae
• Side-view mirrors

I left the scoop on since it’s low-profile, and also the wing since it might actually help on jumps.

Despite these efforts to keep the body in usable condition, I found out very quickly that the shell itself is not very durable.

First Laps

It did well on its first time out:

The S1 compound tires gripped nicely. I didn’t even add traction compound. My gut tells me that if there was a big SC Rally scene, the more commonplace stock Traxxas rally tires would also do just fine with some traction additive.

Traction Roll & Wing Durability

Once the tires warmed up they had enough grip to (inevitably) traction roll the vehicle. The general shape of hatchback rally car bodies is good because odds are the car will land back on its wheels. On my first roll-over where I landed upside down, I got hit by another Slash and the wing exploded.

Thankfully it was my nephew who crunched it, so I can’t really harbor any remorse.

Body Durability

Also, at one point I grazed the outside of the back straight and it almost completely tore off the front fender.

Needless to say the Basher/BSR 1/8 Rally Body is not up to the task of a full season of door-to-door racing. If I go all-in on this rig, I will instead get a thick (1.5 or 2mm) Deltaplastik lexan body.

Otherwise everything else performed nicely. Besides losing the wing and the fender, there was only a small nick along the body’s front edge, so the bumper did its job well. The tires gripped well. It drove and jumped predictably. It was great seeing a full-bodied rally car out on the track – mixing it up with other buggies and trucks like it was the Baja 1000.

More Power?

I got to trade transmitters with a fellow rally driver who had a 4WD Traxxas Rally. It had a brushless system on 3S power with insane speed. It was actually too fast for most of the course, but it made one jump very easy. It made me wish my brushed rally car had just a little more power to make the first jump in the turf series right in front of the drivers stand.

The brushless rally car could jump right onto the 2nd platform, making this obstacle more smooth and fun. But I wanted to stay true to the low-cost vision of a Spec Slash based rally car. One jump didn’t detract from the smile I had on the other 99% of the track.

The post SC Rally Testing appeared first on Meatball Racing.

It was basically a 1/10th scale touring car with longer shocks and more suspension droop for a higher ride height. It also had a raised bumper for clearing bumps. Team Associated followed suit by offering a conversion kit to make a TC3 Rally. For the next 20 years various manufacturers have taken a stab at the rally game, some lasting longer than others.

RC Rallying Styles

RC Rallying overseas is done on scale courses where the driver follows the vehicle through the course which can be incredibly complex and/or long. It is very similar to RC rock crawling but at a much faster pace.

The SoCal RC Rally Runners stateside do a similar time-trial like setup, but on a smaller course where there’s (ironically?) less running. Lots of scale details have been added including bridges and small jumps.

But I’m OK with giving up a little bit of the scale detail. Why not run them at one of the many off-road tracks our country has to offer? We’re here to jump right? Sure the jumps will be comparatively HUGE, but if the cars can handle it, why not?

Also, as much I love WRC and the time-trial game, nothing beats racing RC cars door-to-door with your friends. I’m thinking something like what Ultra4RC racing is to crawlers… traditional main racing, just with rally cars. By racing at traditional off-road tracks, we’re going to need to go big with these cars.

Short Course Rally

Traxxas has been selling the venerable Slash for over 10 years now without many changes. What that means is there are a bunch of 2wd Slashes out there that are sitting on shelves, collecting dust. SC (Short Course) Rally would be a new lease on life.

Sure Traxxas already makes an out-of-the-box rally car based on the Slash 4×4 – but I want the sheer numbers of the 2wd Slashes out there to be able to participate as well. So keep driving your Traxxas Rally if you’ve got one, and if you’ve got a 2wd Slash or other short course truck collecting dust, consider this easy conversion. To keep costs controlled, I put together an example 2wd spec class list:

Spec SC Rally2

Truck

• Stock 2wd Slash (brushed motor, high center of gravity chassis)

Body

• Any fully-fendered car body (no truck/buggy bodies) – most 1/8 scale will fit. Here are some examples:
  • HobbyKing BSR Racing 1/8 Rally Pre-Painted Body
  • Deltaplastik
  • Parma
  • Traxxas 7411(X) 7412(X) 7416
  • Pro-Line/Protoform PRFX
  • Team Associated 7180 7181 7182
  • Baja Bug (Pro-Line) and BAJR (J-Concepts) fans – these are not full fendered. You should instead look at the Deltaplastik New and Classic Beetles.
• Pro-Line extended body mounts

Foam Bumper

• RPM wide Rustler bumper + Traxxas Rally Bumper Foam OR
• Integy Foam Bumper (for bodies with a longer front overhang)

Wheels & Tires

• RPM offset-compensating front A-arms – these could be considered optional, they just add +3mm of offset to the front so the wheel offset matches the body & rear tires.
• Traxxas 7471 Rally Tires (widely available, pre-mounted as 7473) – the reviews on loamy dirt were only fair but it would probably do well with traction compound like Spec Slash tires do
• Traxxas 7471R S1 Compound Rally Tires (less common, but better grip)

SC Rally4 & Beyond

If main style off-road rally racing catches on, there would obviously need to be a class for 4WD rally cars too. I imagine the class rules for this would accommodate all of the short-course based rally cars from various manufacturers. Some simple dimensions might be:

• Wheelbase 300-335mm
• Width 260-300mm
• 2S Battery
• Possibly a spec brushless motor? Maybe 4WD is destined to be a modified class.
• Some minimum weight standard

The real equalizer should be tires. Settling on pre-mounts such as the Traxxas 7471 or 7471R would be a good place to start. It would avoid racers messing around with the tire foams and wheels, trying to find an advantage. Other racing classes such as USGT and Vintage Trans-Am have seen great popularity by having spec tires and simple rules which encouraging close racing.

Testing

Rather than just dream about all of this, I put together a test SC Rally2 platform to see how it would perform. Tune in to the next article to see the results.

The post SC Rally Proof-of-Concept appeared first on Meatball Racing.

This February has been the snowiest on record, so we have plenty of material to work with.

February 2019 is now the snowiest February on record for the Twin Cities, and there is still 8 days to go! In the second picture, some of our meteorologists posed for a picture during the storm this morning as the record was being broken. #snow #minnesota #mnwx pic.twitter.com/cXtwSXiq9z

— NWS Twin Cities (@NWSTwinCities) February 20, 2019

I had a track layout in mind… a simple figure-8 with a jump at the crossover point. The jumps are the two that came with a Ten Eighty 1080 Flybox Ramp combo. I just put them side-by-side before it snowed. You could also dig out a space for jumps and cover them in snow, or simply build a snow jump. I can’t speak highly enough of these 1080 jumps – especially if you can find them used through craigslist or a garage sale. They’ve provided hours of jumping fun.

To help design the track, I marked off some critical points with plant potters or buckets to give me a reference even with 30+ inches of snow. Then I went and shoveled out the lanes, putting most of the snow on the outside of the lane.

The lanes aren’t the standard 8-10 feet you’d see at a sanctioned RC race – they average about 6 feet instead.

I originally shoveled several “hard edges” – walls of snow that met the driving lane at a 90 degree angle.

While this seemed like a good idea during design, testing revealed that your RC was likely to get stuck hitting the wall. It required more driver skill than me or my kids would tolerate while our fingers were freezing, so I instead made all of the track edges ramps.

I took a page out of the mountain biker book and used a set of snowshoes to tamp down the fluffy snow into a hardpack – doing a “snowshoe stomp.” This helps especially on the deep-snow sections that will get a lot of traffic – like the jump and the ramped edges that are on off-camber sections.

To make sure it was usable, I brought out a 2wd Monster Snow Slash to test. I purposely started with the battery at a storage charge (50%) to make sure the track was usable at slightly slower speeds. I’d turn some laps, make some mental notes, make some changes, then repeat.

The ramped edges gives the track a fun luge-like feeling. You can ride the edge to help turn and maintain speed.

To the right is a patio made of pavers. I shoveled all the snow off, so it just has the layer of ice that came before the snow. It makes for an interesting slippery surface, sort of like the tiled corner that was part of the 2014 IFMAR worlds track at Naxos:

The patio section and the jump were smooth enough for my daughter to drive her LaTrax Prerunner on, so she joined me for a race. She would just do the jump and take a hard right going back to the patio because it is the smoothest section of the course – best suited for her Prerunner.

A few days after that run we got eight more inches of snow. I took the opportunity to really ramp up the edges of the track

Now it’s like a winter version of the track at Radiator Springs.

Maybe I should add a balanced rock, or art deco wing made of snow to the middle for authenticity

Have you built a backyard track or have any interesting ideas you’d like to see? Drop a comment below and share.

The post Off-Road RC Snow Track appeared first on Meatball Racing.

The idea came while researching tire and wheel sizes for the Prerunner. I wanted to find out if my daughter could drive her truck at Dollar Hobbyz Raceway on a practice day. To keep their carpet nice they have a strict “no knobby tire” rule. So I looked for some touring car tires that are approximately the same size as the stock Prerunner tires.

Turns out the LaTrax tires are exactly the same size as normal 1/10th scale touring car wheels and tires. Then it came to me… if touring car wheels & tires fit, so will drift tires – which means Kitchen Drift can become a reality. So I picked up a set of Integy drift wheels/tires for $20 at my local hobby shop and mounted them up.

It looks a little like an SUV rollin’ on dubs.

On half speed, it drifts well on the kitchen linoleum. With the tires providing very little grip, bumps into the fridge and oven aren’t going to do any damage to the car or the appliances

I haven’t tried full speed yet because it gets a good enough slide for this small space. Full speed would be great if you have a large room, like a concrete basement floor.

Start working on those drifting skills, maybe you could be the star driver in a Super Bowl commercial

The post LaTrax Prerunner Drift appeared first on Meatball Racing.